Japan

Overview

Japan had long been on my list of places to visit. Honestly, I put it off because I was afraid. It felt like too big of a challenge–the language, the food, and the culture. I was unsure of how I would fare in a country where the language didn’t use a roman script, where customs were so strict that I was sure to offend someone, and whether a non-fish lover would have enough to eat in the land that invented sushi.

I could not have been more wrong. To prove it, I went to Japan TWICE in the same year. In fact, during quarantine, Japan has been one of the places I’ve been dreaming about visiting. After my long-planned first visit at the end of May 2019, I went back a few months later over the 4th of July weekend in 2019. After that first trip, I felt like there were so many things I didn’t get see, so I needed a few more days in Tokyo to check them off the list (including Tokyo Disneyland)

All told, I spent 2+ weeks in Japan and visited Tokyo, Hakone, Kyoto, and Osaka. It was absolutely one of the best countries I have ever visited. In every aspect, Japan exceeded my expectations.

Tokyo is confusing and hectic but surprisingly quiet for such a large city. The public transport is amazing and runs on time. Kyoto was very pleasant and filled with temples to visit. Osaka was in definite contrast to Tokyo – much more casual and free, but still Japanese to its core. My fear of the food – even fish – was completely unfounded because everything was delicious and of high quality. I even ate sushi and it was really tasty. I’d happy eat sushi in Japan anytime.

Every person I interacted with was kind. I admire the politeness of the Japanese people and in the few casual interactions I had, I found the Japanese people to be naturally curious and delightful. Their legendary honesty was on full display when we left a backpack with an iPad and Nintendo Switch on the Osaka subway and within 3 hours, we had it back, completely untouched.

I’ve pulled together my top tips and recommendations below.

General Tips

• If the website/signage is in English, they welcome non-native speakers.
• In Tokyo, stand on the left and walk on the right. In Osaka, walk on the left and stand on the right. Japan is an orderly country, so look around and do what everyone else is doing and you’ll be fine. They wait in line to get on the subway and to go up the escalator, go with the flow.
• The subway and transport will have English signs and numbered stations so you’ll be fine if you don’t speak Japanese.
• Avoid rush hours on the Tokyo subway. Trust me, you DO NOT want to be squished into a Tokyo Subway Car.
• The train stations are massive. Give yourself extra time to get where you need to go.
• Plan extra time in your schedule to do nothing. Some of my best memories of the trip were nothing was planned and I let the moment move me.
• YouTube was a great planning resource. Here are a few of my favorite YouTubers who helped me plan my trip: Paolo from Tokyo, Only in Japan, Abroad in Japan, TabiEats, and Japan-Guide.Com (both YouTube and Website)

Tokyo

• As Japan’s largest city, it is definitely a destination unto itself. Tokyo is basically Los Angeles, with New York City density, and a hospital’s cleanliness. That being said, the public transport makes it dead simple to get nearly anywhere you need to go.
• I visited all the major sites/neighborhoods in Tokyo like Shinjuku, Shibuya, Yoyogi Park, Akihabara, Asakusa, Harajuku, etc. Most travel guides have these on their lists so I won’t go into detail here. Basically, there is something for everyone and you should create your own list based on your interests.
• Accommodations:
  • On my first visit, I stayed at the Hotel Sunroute Plaza in Shinjuku. It’s a great hotel, near the massive Shinjuku station, with western style accommodations and I’d recommend it for anyone. There are restaurants nearby (even a McDonald’s if you need it) and of course a Lawson, 7/11, and FamilyMart.
  • On my second visit, I stayed at the ICI HOTEL Asakusabashi by RELIEF in Asakusabashi. While still very nice, it is a much “cosier” accommodation. I could easily recommend this hotel for one or two travelers. I liked that this hotel was located in what seemed like a Japanese neighborhood I got to see what a local areal looked/felt like.
• Recommended:
  • Robot Bar – Its very touristy, but unlike anything else you’ll see. Do it. You can book reservations when in Japan or in advance.
  • TeamLab Borderless – This fun art installation is fun an something you might not see in other places. Also a great way to cool off on a hot day. Make your reservations early.
  • Odaiba Onsen – While not for everyone, there was something really fun about taking in this Japanese tradition. I saw plenty of non-Japanese folks at the onsen so you won’t feel too out of place (but very naked).
  • Shibuya Crossing – You can’t go to Tokyo without going here. It’s just a street crossing but SO MANY PEOPLE cross at the same time. It’s crazy and fun.
  • Japanese Convenience Stores – These are on almost every corner, which is great, since you can get nearly anything you may need. If you are unsure about food while in Japan, you can find familiar items here and even use your Google Translate to see what the packaging says.
  • Disney – This deserves more (my full blog here), but the short answer is YES. Disney Sea is the unique park, so if you only have time for one, do that.
  • Takashimaya Department Store – Of course you can shop here, but its also a great place to go if you want food. The basement has a huge food market with take away food and there are restaurants on the upper floors.
  • Tokyu Food Show – In the basement of the Tokyu Department store in Shibuya, this massive food hall has every conceivable food item you could want. It was here where I had the best chocolate-covered croissant and saw grapes that were $100.
  • Tokyu Hands – This is a fun store to browse. To me, it was a mix of a Michael’s craft store with a little of Home Depot thrown in. I spent hours looking through several stores in a few cities just to see what each one had.

Hakone Area

• The guidebooks have a lot to say about Hakone. In my experience, it didn’t live up to my expectations BUT that could have been my situation. The volcano in the area had just increased its activity, so the arial tramway and volcano area was closed. Instead, there was bus service that routed around the area.
• The boat ride from Togendai across Lake Ashii was nice but nothing really special.
• The highlight of this trip was the Hakone Shrine Tori Gate. It was a short-ish walk from the Hakone dock where our Lake Ashii boat trip ended. The massive tori gate in the water makes for a beautiful picture.
• Accommodation:
  • I only stayed one night in the Hakone area and used it as a way to take a relaxing break from all the activity in Tokyo. I splurged on a nice place and stayed at the Hyatt Regency Resort and Spa. Definitely pricey, but I booked this through a travel agent and she threw in a decent hotel credit, a room upgrade, and a free dinner. The hotel had an onsen in the basement and it was wonderful to sooth away stress in the hot mineral water.

Kyoto

• As Japan’s old Imperial Capital, there are TONS of temples and sights to see in Kyoto. It’s a very different vibe from Tokyo and worth a trip. To be honest, I had seen enough temples and whatnot in Tokyo and Hakone, so I just hit the big sights here. I did them in a day but it was pretty rushed. This is something to figure out on your own.
• Golden Temple – The temple is covered in gold leaf and glimmers in the sun. You have to take a fairly long bus ride to get there from Kyoto station, but its worth it.
• Imperial Palace – This wasn’t on the original list, but the bus from the Golden Temple to Fushimi Inari Shrine went right by this place and we decided to get off and explore. The Imperial Palace grounds are preserved and there is a walking path. It’s interesting to see the architecture and imperial style gardens. Also, its free!
• Gion – This is the shopping street as well as the old Imperial Style city area. You’ll see a lot of people walking around in traditional kimonos, even non-Japanese folks. I guess if you are dying to do it for the ‘gram, then by all means live it up, but that wasn’t my thing.
• Fushimi Inari Shrine – This shrine is unique with thousands of tori gates winding their way up the mountain. Yes, I did this for the ‘gram, but it was really beautiful. In my opinion, this is worth the trip.
• I stayed in Osaka for this portion of the trip so I have no accommodation tips for Kyoto.

Osaka

• Many of the travel blogs will tell you to skip Osaka, but I would say they are wrong. Osaka is not as flashy as Tokyo or as scenic as Kyoto, but I think its worth a visit. The best analogy I heard was, if Tokyo is the NY of Japan, Osaka is its Chicago. Do with this as you may.
• I used it as a base to explore Kyoto since it was only a 30 minute train ride away and had a more lively nightlife scene. It was great to spend the day in traditional Kyoto and the evening in raucous Osaka. It seemed like there was a new restaurant every 5 feet and on my hotel’s block I could have spent a week eating and partying without repeating a single place.
• Accommodation:
  • I stayed at Hotel the Flag in Shinsaibashi. I loved this hotel – trendy, comfortable, clean, and the staff was extremely friendly. It is right in the middle of the restaurant and club district but once inside, you don’t hear or see anything. Its close to the main shopping street and transport is a 5 min walk away.
• Recommended:
  • Dotombori – This shopping and restaurant district by the river is bustling with nightlife and it’s worth a visit if you want to eat, people-watch, or shop.
  • Make sure to get your picture taken in front of the iconic Glico Man sign along the river in the Dotombori.
  • Gyozaoh Dotombori – I was craving gyoza one night and found this place. It’s tiny, inexpensive, and delicious. The staff was very friendly and engaging. Everything I ate was delicious and I’d recommend the Apple Highball.

Himeji Castle

• If you have a free day in the Osaka/Kyoto area and have a JR Railpass (see below), I recommend a day trip to Himeji Castle. Himeji Castle is said to be the most beautiful castle in Japan. I’d agree. The tour takes you from the garden at the base of the castle to the top of the castle.
• It took approximately 1 hr on the non-express train from Osaka and about 30 min by Shinkansen. The castle is visible from Himeji station and about a 10 min walk away.

Tokyo Disneyland and Disney Sea

• I think I will have to do a full blog on this, but I would heartily recommend a Disney day if you are going to Tokyo. As someone who grew up going to Disneyland in California, it warmed my heart to see how the Japanese have embraced Disney and made it their own. It was disorienting, comforting, and magical all in one.
• If you only have time for one park, I’d recommend Disney Sea. It is the unique park in Japan. While the least “Disney” of all of the parks I have visited, it retains that magical feel that you expect from Disney. Favorite attractions: Journey to the Center of the Earth, 20K Leagues Under the Sea, Tower of Terror, Indiana Jones, and Sinbad’s Storybook Voyage.
• Bring your stomach because eating is part of the Tokyo Disney experience. This is where you get to see the American and Japanese influence intertwine and its amazing. Fun popcorn flavors, gyoza hot dog, Toy Story mochi, and more.
• Buy your tickets in advance because the lines to buy tickets are long. I bought mine at the Disney Store in Odaiba. Not all Disney stores sell the tickets, so check the website.

Transport

• I strongly recommend the JR Pass. I booked the 7-day pass in ordinary class for my first trip but didn’t activate it until after I left Tokyo. The pass is expensive but makes getting around the entire country very easy and gives you access to most of the Shinkansen trains. Japanese trains are clean, on time, and every few minutes. This pass gives you the flexibility to take pretty much any train at anytime.
• Ordinary class is perfectly fine for JR Trains, but if you want to treat yourself, book Green Class (first class). Note that Green Class REQUIRES reservations, but ordinary class does not, although recommended.
• In the cities, there are often multiple train companies running the subway and regional trains. While there are several multi-day pass options for the Tokyo Subway system, these passes do not cover the JR Trains, and vice versa. For simplicity, I just decided to get a Suica card and pay as I went. (There are other IC contactless cards in other cities and they are all virtually interchangeable, but Suica was the one I got in Tokyo on my first visit.)
  
  After you add cash to your Sucia, you just tap your card when you enter, transfer, and exit the train system and the proper credit is deducted from the card. My Suica card was valid in every city I traveled to, including Osaka. When I couldn’t use my JR Pass, my Suica covered everything else. It might have been a bit more expensive, but trust me, do NOT want to buy single tickets for each trip in Japan.

Shinkansen

• I’m a train nerd so this was a highlight. If you don’t get the JR Rail Pass, make sure you book at least one trip on these high-speed train. It’s like an airplane that travels on the rails.
• If you have a JR pass, book seat reservations for the trains you want to take. It’s free but you do have to get to the station early and find the Shinkansen office.
• On most trains in Japan, eating is rude, but its is expected and encouraged on the Shinkansen. Every station has several food shops where you can buy “ekiben” or train bento boxes specifically for eating on the train. I often bought a bag of food and a beverage on the train. It’s a great way to relax and enjoy the trip. Take your trash with you when you leave.

Money

• Japan is cash-based but I was usually able to use my Visa card for purchases at larger stores. A lot of the travel blogs painted a much bleaker picture of credit card usage in Japan than I found to be true.
• 7-11 was a reliable place to get cash and since they are nearly on every corner, they were always accesible.

Food & Drink

• If you are unsure about a place but want some food, the department stores in Japan have food halls in the basement. I ate several meals via the Takashimaya food hall in both Tokyo and Kyoto. The food is amazing, not too expensive, and they will pack up your items to go. In Kyoto, I got a little bento and took it to the river to eat and watch the water flow by. It was honestly one of the best meal experiences I had in Japan.
• Check out the convenience stores (7-11, Lawson, Family Mart) for quality, fresh, and delicious food/snacks.
• Pretty much everything I ate in Japan was delicious but my favorite meals were:
  • Ichiran Ramen (Tokyo & Osaka)- This ubiquitous ramen shop has locations all over Tokyo and Osaka. You place your order via vending machine and get a set of tickets with you order on them. You are seated in a cubicle with walls either side of you (an introvert’s heaven). You never see your server, but a little curtain opens up in front of you where you hand them your tickets, and a few minutes later, your delicious ramen arrives.
  • Gyukatsu Motomura (Tokyo)- This was one of my favorite meals ever. You are served a katsu-ed but very rare steak that you get to grill on a hot stone. Its served with several sauces, rice, and a cabbage salad. Honestly, I still think about this meal regularly. Definitely eat here if you get a chance. This video gives a good overview.
  • Gyozaoh Dotombori (Osaka) – I was craving gyoza one night and found this place. It’s tiny, inexpensive, and delicious. The staff was very friendly and engaging. Everything I ate was delicious and I’d recommend the Apple Highball.

Language

• No one expects you to speak Japanese when you and much of the critical signage is in English, but you should be a good traveler and learn a few key Japanes words/phrases:
  • Please = O-ne-gai-she-mas (or Ku-da-sai)
  • Thank You = A-ri-ga-to go-zai-mas
  • Excuse Me = Su-mi-ma-sen
• I learned the hiragana and katakana phonetic scripts from Tofugu.com to help me be able to feel less lost when seeing Japanese language symbols. It was doable, but not at all necessary for travel. I enjoyed the challenge of trying to read the characters on signs in Japan.

Internet & Apps

• Having a strong and reliable internet connection in Japan was incredibly helpful and worth every penny. I ordered a wifi hotspot from Japan Wireless for both trips and it was worth every penny. I preferred the wifi hotspot over the sim card option, because I could share the hotspot with others in my travel group.
• Google Maps – incredibly helpful in getting around the cities in Japan and using public transport.
• Hyperdia – this Japanese app will help you figure out which trains to take between cities. If you have to pay for a week or a month, it’s a worthwhile expense. Again, the Japanese train system is complex and this app helps you navigate your options.
• Google Translate – Its not perfect but it does help in a pinch. Download the Japanese dictionary before you leave home.

Luggage Shipping

• I usually travel pretty light, but for this trip, I ended up having to bring a larger suitcase. Instead of hauling this bag from hotel to hotel and on & off trains, I decided to ship it from Tokyo to Osaka. I strongly recommend this for ease of travel.
• Shipping a standard airline-checked bag from Tokyo to Osaka was about $15 and took about a day. Check with the hotel to confirm timing.
• The hotel clerks at my hotels in Tokyo and Osaka helped fill out the form in Japanese for me.
• You can find more info here at Japan-Guide.com.